Main Street Station

Jefferson's capitol in downtown is perhaps the most historic and studied piece of architecture in Richmond.  It was built upon a hill overlooking the James River to its south but is now surrounded by taller buildings on all sides.  That classic view from and to the Capitol is now gone.

The building most recognized by those who don't live in Richmond is "that train station with a clock tower".  Being less than 20 feet from Interstate 95 makes Main Street Station hard to miss.

When I moved to Richmond shortly after college in 1981, the station was closed and a hangout for the homeless.  In fact, most of Shockoe Bottom could be described that way.   The architectural office I went to work for (SWA) was located diagonally from the Farmer's Market and less than a block from the station.  My memory is that the only legal businesses in that area were Domino's Dog House, Loving's Produce, Main Street Grill, and SWA.

The area held so much promise and the Station seemed the key to any redevelopment of the area.  The development arm of SWA planned to turn the structure into a retail center like Harbor Place in Baltimore and Faniel Hall in Boston.  With the influx of new traffic drawn to this center, the entire area would become a hotspot for other businesses.  At least, that was the plan.

One of the highlights of that time was exploring the empty Station one day with a co-worker.  The journey began by going up the dozen steps from Main Street to the downstairs lobby.  From that point, you can get directly to the platform by going up the long, straight stairs on the west side.  Most travelers preferred the more elegant path, up the wide switch-back stairs on the east side. 

The main hall at the top was filled with tall classical columns and light poured through the Romanesque arches. The front balcony is off the main hall and quite spectacular.  The view is no longer grand as when the Station was built, now looking onto the tangle of elevated roads and ramps that cut diagonally in front. 

Passing through the main hall, we entered the waiting area by the massive metal shed and elevated platform.  This incredible open space of the shed had deteriorated badly. Unfortunately, the space can no longer be appreciated as it was designed.  Later renovation enclosed the perimeter with metal panels.

The next part of our exploration took us up two more sets of stairs to the upper floor and then into the attic with all the small dormers on the sloped roof.  At the corner of the attic was a door leading to the shaft of the clock tower.  To go further required us to climb around 20+ feet up a metal ladder to the next level.  Arriving at the top, we were surrounded by the clock tower doors. 

Opening the door was one of the surreal experiences of my life.  We had just climbed up so many steps to the top of the building - to find cars passing by right outside.  I knew the interstate was there, but lost in the journey through the Station had become detached from the outside world.  The noise of the traffic and the crudeness of how close the interstate was to the building was disturbing.

Two years went by and money tightened.  The scale of the retail concept diminished into an outlet mall.  Then came the fire.  I remember seeing the news flash of fire leaping from the roof on television and thinking that my job was disappearing with that fire.  Our company's fortunes were very closely tied to the Station redevelopment. 

The fire burned the roof off but forced the hand of the developers.  It jump-started our design work; redevelopment would happen now or never.  I worked on the railing design but was not happy with the developer's concept and dreaded the prospect of one more year of restoration work.  As a young intern interested in conceptual design, I wanted a different challenge and left a month later.

Redevelopment into the retail mall did take place but failed after a couple years.  Fortunately, the burned headhouse roof was rebuilt during that phase and remains substantially as designed 100 years ago.  The State of Virginia took over the mall space under the train shed and converted it into offices.  Subsequent renovation took the head house back to a working train stop, though not the primary one for Richmond.  The main lobby areas are open to the public and beautifully restored.  It is always a joy to visit but needs more people to make it alive again.

Time will tell if the current plans to convert the Station into the City's transportation hub will take place.  I'd very much like to see that happen.

Railroad Bridge

One of the most iconic structures of Richmond is the concrete railroad bridge that crosses the James River about 5 miles west of downtown.  It is best seen in its entirety from Powhite Parkway or Boulevard Bridge, but the enormity of it is best viewed at the river level. 

The pair of tracks at its top are very active, a main path for freight and passenger travel connecting north and south.  It is a common sight to see dozens of Tropicana box-cars lined up.  Amtrack also runs along these tracks and stops just a few miles north at the Staples Mill Road station. 

Riverside Drive snakes through the final small arch on the south side.  Two separate east-west train tracks pass underneath this bridge's gigantic arches on both river banks.  The south tracks are lightly used and connect West Point and Amelia crossing the river downtown near the Mayo Bridge.  The tracks along the north are highly traveled by coal cars going between West Virginia and Hampton Roads.

It's not easy to get down to the river near the bridge without walking through woods and thorny thickets.  The river bank level is about 80 feet lower than the road above.  A couple paths will take you there from Riverside Drive - made primarily by young people who fish and party along the rocks.  At the bottom, you are very much in a different place.  Graffiti and some trash is splattered about, evidence of the many people who use and abuse this natural place.  The sense of isolation and challenge in finding this spot surely has something to do with this.

Once near the base of the bridge, you realize just how massive and imposing it is.  The old piers of an earlier stone bridge are also visible. The distinguishing feature of the design is the series of large semi-circular arches that support slender arches under the track bed.  Up close, the color is a beige-yellow from years of dirt and mold.  From a greater distance, the color is more of a light gray except at sunset when the light comes in low, directly down-river washing the bridge in orange then red.

When venturing down the hill to this spot, take the time to sit on a rock and just listen to the sounds.  After filtering out the droan of the Parkway, you'll begin to hear and see the geese and ducks.  The small stepped falls of the river are very calming.  And if you're lucky, one of the bald eagles who are nesting on the nearby island will fly overhead.

Pipeline Catwalk

I've worked within two blocks of this cool place for 13 years and only recently discovered it.  Unless you know exactly where to look, you'll never stumble across it.  The best way to find the starting point is to go to the river side of the floodwall at 14th Street and head west about 200 feet.  Not far after crossing the grade-level tracks, you'll see a wooden stair that ends at the top of the bank.

This river bank drops about 15 feet straight down to the water. To start the journey, one must climb down a metal ladder to the 24" wide catwalk.  Once on the pipe, you'll see that the bank along this section of the river is held in place by very old stacked stones which I presume were once part of the industrial buildings along the river.

The pipeline is suspended over the water and under the CSX elevated track.  A metal grate walkway is bolted ontop. It's a very architectural experience to walk the quarter mile until the grate ends.  You can continue to Browns Island if you wish to negotiate the flattened top of the pipe without a rail.

Along the way, you will see some new guests to our city and an indication that the James River is getting healthier: the Heron Rookery.  The sign along the walkway tells the story best.  In 2006 there were no heron nesting in the trees along the River.  In 2007, there were 4.  One year later, there were 34.  I don't know exactly how many are there now, but it is nesting time and I can count more than three dozen nests in the treetops of Mayo Island from the pipeline view.  These large birds constantly swoop down to feed on the fish at the first line of rapids near the bridge, then return to the nests.

Walking further along the pipeline, there are rapids under your feet and a pretty good view of the downtown skyline.  Overhead are a pair of train tracks.  The walking experience could only be more interesting if one of the long coal trains were to pass over your head.

The only disappointment with this view is seeing the ugly underside of the Cordish development.   It appears that the design team turned its back to the river and didn't put any thought into that side of the building's base.  The parking deck, best seen from the Manchester Bridge is crude and thoughtless.  Sorry for the editorial comments, but as someone in the design and urban planning business, this complex misses the mark in so many ways.  It occupies a huge footprint on the river's edge, but set aside no public access.  Only upper floor tenants get a view of the river.  After 5+ years, the canal-oriented plaza remains dead and only one restaurant occupies the retail spaces.  I wonder why. 

Thoughtful planning is so important to a city.  Developments like this are around for 50+ years and mistakes are hard to undo.  At least the wildlife don't seem to mind this complex as much as I do.

Byrd Park Pump House

Though neglected, one of the more interesting historic structures in Richmond is the pump house at the bottom of Byrd Park.  It claims the oddest combination of program functions I’ve ever known. 

The primary purpose of the late 19^th Century building is to house water pumps powered by waterwheel.  Water was pushed uphill to the reservoir about a half mile away.  Though this pump house is no longer in use, the later pump house next door still supplies drinking water to Richmond.

The other use of the building was as a venue for dances and concerts – on the open balcony at the top floor.   From this vantage point, you could look down on the canal and locks, hear the water as it poured out of the spillway, and see across the natural beauty of the James River.  A sign at the site alludes to people arriving by canal boat to enjoy the performances.  I’m curious if that romantic scene ever occurred.  Perhaps there’s a photo of it within the archives of the Valentine Museum.

The gothic revival building was designed by the City Engineer in a gothic revival style.  It has many characteristics of a church and is highly ornate.  The windows are tall and slender with gothic arches at the top.  These features do a great job of disguising its utility. 

The canal locks are themselves an interesting object within the site.  There are two channels for water running parallel to the river.  Both are fed from a point up-river.  The upper one supplied water to turn the waterwheel in a sudden drop.  The lower one contains the series of locks which used to raise and lower small boat traffic around the rapids on this section of the river. 

The stonework for the locks and building is said to have come from a small stone quarry 10 yards from the front of the building.  Granite such as this was quarried at several points along the stepped falls of Richmond.  It provided an important resource for 18^th and 19^th Century development.   Two other quarries can be found along the western stretch of Riverside Drive near the Pony Pasture and in the center of Belle Isle.

Finding this spot is rather tricky at the moment.  There is road work being done in front along Pump House Road.  Access is blocked from the Boulevard Bridge side near the toll booth.  You now must wind your way to the west side of the Carillon and do the tricky left turn near the entrance to Kanawha Trace.  The grounds are overgrown as you can see in the photos, but are fairly easy to walk.

The Kanawha Canal Locks and Bridge

One of the challenges of being an architect in an old city is finding a balance between our history and the need for economic growth. I love old buildings and came to Richmond 30 years ago to work in a firm that revitalized old buildings. That work included a large dose of archeology and history of which I’ve always had an interest. To redraw an old building is to get into the mind of the one who originally designed it.

It is also my belief that a city should grow and evolve. Its Architecture and urban character should not be stagnant but reflect the technology and culture of the day. Everything old is not historic and worth saving.

History is not written only through literature. It is revealed in a city’s urban design and Architecture. The street layout reflects the transportation and social structure of the day. The Architecture of a city illustrates our values, economics, and lifestyles. Because a new project will be around for at least 50 years, Architects have a responsibility to understand history and how a new project will impact its neighbors and fit into the overall urban character. They should help a client (and the public) discern what has lasting value and what may no longer be relevant. Removing an old building or street pattern is forever after great consideration.

While most of the old residential districts are intact, much of the old Richmond commercial area has been destroyed over the years. The most defining urban feature of 19th Century Richmond – the Kanawha Canal was lost by the construction of the Downtown Expressway and the James Center. There are only a few remnants remaining of that industrial setting.

The most intact part of the original canal can be found near the intersection of 12th and Bryd Street. Two lock sections remain though the gates have been removed. However, the stone blocks that used to hold the gates are still in place. The water level drops a couple times down to the arched bridge that used to connect directly to the tobacco storage warehouses at Shockoe Slip and to Gallago Mill where the Omni complex now stands.

This stone bridge has some interesting details - including a keystone at the top of the arches. One of these is inscribed with an 1860 date. Several large stones have drill and wedge slots where they were split at the quarry.

With the sale of the Reynolds property, this area will soon experience some change. The bulky metal industrial buildings that cover the lower section will be gone and the canal should once again be open to the sky. Hopefully the new residential development will respect and save this small section of the Canal.

For more images of the canal, see my Flickr page at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/uklars/sets/72157625762269441/

Pedestrian Bridge to Belle Isle

You may have noticed a theme to the first group of essays. They are along the James River or Kanawha Canal - and to me are the best cluster of interesting places in Richmond. Occasionally, I will ride my bike to work on a 5-mile path designed to pass each of these very special places. The coolest part of the trip is traversing the pedestrian bridge that connects the north bank with Belle Isle. I usually get off my bike and walk the quarter mile just so I can enjoy the scenery.

The addition of this bridge twenty years ago made the island’s natural resources and history much more accessible. Previously, the only access was from the south. To get there, you first had to find a place to park along Riverside Drive, know where to cross the railroad tracks, and be willing to cross a dam or the wood vehicle bridge.

Suspended by cables from the Route 1 (Lee) bridge, the pedestrian walkway hangs delicately in contrast to the massive concrete pylons and roadway above. The arcing sections are high enough to challenge those like me who have a fear of heights. The view of the skyline and Hollywood Rapids is spectacular and well worth the short walk from the Tredegar Street gravel lot.

On a good day, activity is all around. There are hundreds of geese, ducks, and possibly even a heron visible from the bridge. Unless the water gets too high, you will usually see a group of kayakers playing in the class 3 & 4 rapids a couple hundred yards to the west.

Look to the northwest and see the tomb of President Monroe in Hollywood Cemetery and a hydro-electric power-plant that forms the base of an office building for Dominion Virginia Power. Along the northwest bank is Tredegar Street and the remnants of the Civil War-era iron foundry. Stone bulkheads from abandoned train bridges create a rhythm across the river.

For most of the last 200 years, Belle Island was an industrial site. Remnants of that history are still visible and will be the subject of a later essay. The island's history includes its use as a Civil War prison camp for as many as 10,000 captured soldiers - most held without shelter. I strongly recommend finding the prisoner diaries and the accounts of Walt Whitman before going. It will provide an eerie perspective when you next walk around the island.

Triple Crossing

Along Dock Street, across the street from Baskervill is said to be the only place in America where three trains tracks cross. The highly used CSX east-west track is the highest. Trains on this track are long and heavy with coal going to Tidewater. The north-south line connects to Main Street Station just a block away. The on-grade line is lightly used and connects West Point and Amelia.

My main fascination with this location is the confluence of many forms of transportation. Besides the three railroad lines, is the intersection of Interstates 95 and 195 high above. These massive concrete platforms provide a ceiling above the small park created along Dock Street.

My third-year college professor Pete Pinney was intrigued by "spaces" like this. He used to point out the unintended spaces created by the road overpasses in downtown Lexington. Pete would certainly enjoy this spot.

The canal that lies underneath everything was created to remake the Kanawha Canal, originally surveyed by George Washington. The canal's current purpose is flood control. Running like a ribbon along the southern edge is the 20+ foot high flood wall built in the early 80's. It was designed to "protect" Shockoe Bottom from James River floods such as those during Camille and Agnes. Richmond's floods occur primarily when the upper James River is hit by large rainfalls. That water comes to Richmond two days later.

The last and most imfamous flood of recent years was Hurrican Gaston, dumping 13 inches of water into Shockoe creek within 4 hours. Ironically, the floodwall acted as a dam which created heavy damage in the area. This particular spot along Dock Street was covered with 8 feet of water and collected dozens of cars from upstream. The economic heart of the Bottom was destroyed and is yet to recover.

It's a very pleasant place to take a stroll at lunch. If you want to get the full-treatment, take a short boat ride which starts at the turning basin and goes to the eastern end of the canal. Also when investigating Triple Crossing, be sure to read the historical plaque that describes an early slave revolt by one named Gabriel - taking place in this general area.

Brown's Island Pedestrian Bridge

One of my favorite places to experience the James River is from Brown's Island along Tredegar Street. Once you cross the bridge onto the island itself, you can walk onto a remnant of another bridge that once spanned across the river. A section in the middle has been removed, however the Brown's section was renovated and made accessible to pedestrians. Everyone can now go out over a section of rapids created by an old dam.

As you step onto the bridge and pass under the CSX train trestle, be sure to look down. The renovation team embedded a series of brushed stainless "planks" into the walkway with historical quotes. This little detail is a thoughtful touch and adds historical relevance to the place.

There are few legitimate places where the public can experience the river that is so much a part of Richmond's history and geography. This walkout is perhaps the most accessible and safest place to feel the river and its rapids without getting wet.